WATER MAINTENANCE
Daily: Check water level and top off if needed, Use a Cavi or Lysol/Clorox wipe on the air buttons, clean scum line (where the water meets the tank walls inside) if needed.
Optional Every other day: 1 oz of leisure time enzymes
Weekly: Use a cloth rag to wipe down the room or pod.
Every Two-Three weeks: Check salt level with the hydrometer, add salt if needed. Ideal range is 1.265 and 1.285.
PLEASE USE GOGGLES AND GLOVES WHEN HANDLING HIGH PERCENTAGE H202. AVOID DIRECT CONTACT WITH STRONG CHEMICALS
Deep Clean: For everything inside the tank above the water line, these inner surfaces need to be cleaned periodically. For a busy center, we usually recommend once a week for deep cleaning. To deep clean, use a small spray bottle, and fill that bottle container halfway or so with the same 35% h202 used for the filtration cycle. Then top off the container with regular water, screw on the top, and shake until mixed. You will want a ratio of 1 : 1 or 1 : 2 depending on your desired amount of oxidation. Being careful to avoid direct contact, spray the entire inner surface of the tank with this diluted h202 solution. Wait 15 minutes for the chemical to fully oxidize germs and microbes. Then, always use your hose to spray down the entire inner surface, making all the residual h202 and dead germs fall into the tank water. Immediately run a filtration cycle.
How to maintain a Floatation Tank? Floatation Tanks, also known as Isolation Tanks, Sensory
Deprivation Tanks or Chambers, float pods, cabins, suites or rooms, are designed to separate
you from the distractions and stimuli of the real world and take you to a place of quiet, dark,
relaxing isolation, as you float buoyantly upon a pleasurable neutral body-temperature liquid
crystal. Instead of ordinary water, a concentrated solution of roughly 33% of Medical Grade
Magnesium Sulfates or “Epsom” salt. The requirements for proper sanitation and maintenance
are in a state of frequent change or revision as there is no over-arching regulations.
Requirements vary, by location, number of tanks, and the intended use, and should be
researched constantly for the latest applicable regulations, LOCALLY. The NSF, APSP and the
Floatation Tank Association are some of the resources to check.
► How To Test FIltration, In A Floatation Tank?
What would be the best way to test for cleanliness, in a floatation tank? I have tried some test
kits, with confusing results.
Filtration is important, to remove dead skin, hair, and debris. A 1-micron filter bag would seem
the ideal choice: compact, easy to remove and dispose of, and very effective. Ultraviolet
sterilizers are always a plus. It renders microbes inert, as light passes through any cells,
including microorganisms that other common pool and spa sanitizers cannot. We have
industrial strength UV light combined with the chemical injector for auto-dosing the cycle with
35% H202, mixed with the correct amount of Ozone from our 6 ozonators. This
creates Peroxone, which is a molecule that is rated by the EPA as the standard for drinking
water filters in the US. We have adapted this to manage 160-260 gallons of saline 3 times in 15
minutes as our base filtration cycle. This cycle can easily be extended for large contaminations.
► Adding Peroxide To A Tank?
What is the proper way to use H202?
Concentrated hydrogen peroxide is a material that needs to be handled properly and stored in a
cool, dark place which will help preserve it. Going through a dilution step is asking for an
accident to happen unless you are using a spray bottle of the diluted H202 for the interior or
exterior fiberglass. Without our Auto-doser for chemicals like H202, you will add it to the tank
and avoid getting the full strength material on your hands or clothing. You will need protective
gloves and goggles if you are hand-dosing the tank with H202. Rinse and dry the measuring
cup.
► How to load a float tank with salt, and how to measure the specific gravity of the solution?
You will fill the tank with water until it is an inch or so above the water intake on the inside of the tank. You never want to run your pump unless you are sure the water level is above the intake. You will then put down a covering such as a rug or blanket onto the tub of the tank, or the door frame of the cabin-style tanks, so that you may rest the bags of salt onto it, and cut the bags open from the part that is inside the tank, so the salt will fall into the tub easily without making a mess. For all tanks but our Deluxe Room, you will put in roughly 1000 pounds of salt. For the Deluxe Room, you will add 1500 pounds. You should load the salt a bag at a time, and add water a little at a time, and wait for it to dissolve. You want the water level to reach the little groove next to the smallest finger of the intake grate, or at most, an inch above it. Wait until all the salt has completely dissolved, which should take a few hours. Once the water is clear and salt dissolved, take a hydrometer reading. The reading should be between 1.26 - 1.285. This is called your specific gravity.
A glass hydrometer is a bobbing glass cylinder that is calibrated to read specific gravity or
density on an analog scale. Our digital hydrometer is quicker and easier and can be more
precise and versatile. When the specific gravity is too high, you add water. Too low - you add
Epsom salts. Optimum floating is between specific gravity levels of 1.265 and 1.285, with
floaters sometimes preferring to go outside those levels.
► Brown Water And Sediments?
The sediments could be impurities, such as manganese, iron and other metals, from the Epsom
salts being impure (food grade or foreign standard) or your tap water. Using food, technical or
industrial instead of medical grades can increase this problem or getting them from a country of
origin that has loose regulation. We suggest using a pharmaceutical or medical grade of Epsom
salt. Epsom salt is MAGNESIUM SULFATE. Most impurities should filter out in our system.
While it is extremely unlikely that microbes will ever flourish in a floatation tank and a UV
sanitizer will neutralize most anything passing through the light, it is not enough by itself.
Oxidation is required to decompose all of the debris, wastes and dead microorganisms that
pass right through the filter. Hydrogen peroxide would be the logical choice. The proper amount
of Ozone created at the right time in the filtration cycle makes for safe and efficient oxidation,
especially when combined with the UV light and H202, creating Peroxone. Vigorous circulation and agitation will help suspend the particles and allow for more effective filtration. You may want to run an Advanced Timing extended filtration cycle, where you can set the chem cycle length of the auto-doser, and the length of the ozonators. This usually rids the tank solution of large contaminations such as dyes, foul odors, and metals/debris, if ran over-night or for an
extended period.
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